Super Excited!! HONDA POWAAA 08 Help

[FA5Jo3]

So I finally picked up my flashpro!! Here is a list of what i have done to my car so far. This is my daily driver, and i noticed ever since i put the Skunk2 cai it idles weird sometimes.

-Skunk2 Alpha Headers
-Skunk2 Megapower Exhaust 3’
-Skunk2 CAI
-91 gas

My question basically is, when you guys first got your flashpro did you guys use the tunes that flashpro provides. Or was it more of a figured it out yourself, basically trial and error? I know these K series got a lot of potential and i want to bring it out. Any tips any advice. I would appreciate anything!! Thanks

[EFICU]

With the 3.5" intake like the Skunk 2 and Hybrid Racing, they need to be tuned using a speed density calibration. You are most likely running a MAF calibration which causes the idling issue and overall poor driving conditions. Once you get a speed density calibration uploaded to the ECU, you can then go in and tune the fuel and ignition tables properly.

[FA5Jo3]

With the 3.5" intake like the Skunk 2 and Hybrid Racing, they need to be tuned using a speed density calibration. You are most likely running a MAF calibration which causes the idling issue and overall poor driving conditions. Once you get a speed density calibration uploaded to the ECU, you can then go in and tune the fuel and ignition tables properly.

Are you familiar with how to do it. I just don’t want to mess anything up lol

[EFICU]

I've only done it hundreds of times, so I think I've got it figured out. Haha. If you want to try to tune it yourself I can make your calibration speed density, or give you one of my basemaps to start on and learn if you want. If you want me to tune it for you, it takes around 10-12 revisions to get them dialed in most cases.

Let me know which route you want to go. The only way to get a really clean tune and get the best power is to tune them properly in the 10-12 revisions I mention. That tunes all cam angles, then blends and builds necessary tables based on data from your car and nobody else's.

[FA5Jo3]

I've only done it hundreds of times, so I think I've got it figured out. Haha. If you want to try to tune it yourself I can make your calibration speed density, or give you one of my basemaps to start on and learn if you want. If you want me to tune it for you, it takes around 10-12 revisions to get them dialed in most cases.

Let me know which route you want to go. The only way to get a really clean tune and get the best power is to tune them properly in the 10-12 revisions I mention. That tunes all cam angles, then blends and builds necessary tables based on data from your car and nobody else's.

Well i would love to learn but is there a formula or like how would i start? I've seen a lot of YouTube videos showing them tuning their own cars but I'm just iffy, i love this car. i have some basemaps already i dont know how good they are but there are a lot saved in there. i still have zero vtc upon decel fuel cut, would you recommend that unchecked?

[EFICU]

If you want to learn how to tune it, I would recommend taking some courses to learn the ins and out. YouTube videos are somewhat helpful depending on who is making the video, but some give rather poor information on how to do stuff along with other forums. The other things is, in the videos they don't really explain how or what they are doing impacts the car, they're just showing you how to do that one thing.

You want to check the box for follow VTC on fuel cut. Though in the calibration you have, it's going to slam to zero every time you let off the gas and shift anyways. In order for that box to work as I recommend, you need to change the low cam map to rotate properly. So right now it won't make a difference whether the follow VTC on decel is checked because your calibration has the decel columns set to 0* anyways.

The absolute main thing you need to do right now is get the tune running speed density. If you're running a MAF based calibration, your fuel trims are really bad and your WOT fuel is probably as well. Not to mention you may have some substantial knock. You need to start moving forward in some capacity to get things in line, then decide if you want to learn how to tune it yourself. Do you have any datalogs?

Which calibration are you running right now? If you really want to learn to tune it yourself, I can tune it quickly for you in a couple revisions so it's safe while you learn and transfer to your own stuff. But finding out how it's running right now is really important, these cars don't run well with a MAF based tune and the Skunk 2 intake. Skunk 2 and Hybrid Racing outline in the instructions that a speed density calibration must be run for proper drivability.

[FA5Jo3]

If you want to learn how to tune it, I would recommend taking some courses to learn the ins and out. YouTube videos are somewhat helpful depending on who is making the video, but some give rather poor information on how to do stuff along with other forums. The other things is, in the videos they don't really explain how or what they are doing impacts the car, they're just showing you how to do that one thing.

You want to check the box for follow VTC on fuel cut. Though in the calibration you have, it's going to slam to zero every time you let off the gas and shift anyways. In order for that box to work as I recommend, you need to change the low cam map to rotate properly. So right now it won't make a difference whether the follow VTC on decel is checked because your calibration has the decel columns set to 0* anyways.

The absolute main thing you need to do right now is get the tune running speed density. If you're running a MAF based calibration, your fuel trims are really bad and your WOT fuel is probably as well. Not to mention you may have some substantial knock. You need to start moving forward in some capacity to get things in line, then decide if you want to learn how to tune it yourself. Do you have any datalogs?

Which calibration are you running right now? If you really want to learn to tune it yourself, I can tune it quickly for you in a couple revisions so it's safe while you learn and transfer to your own stuff. But finding out how it's running right now is really important, these cars don't run well with a MAF based tune and the Skunk 2 intake. Skunk 2 and Hybrid Racing outline in the instructions that a speed density calibration must be run for proper drivability.

/Yeah, i don't think i have enough time right now to take another course haha maybe in the future. I've been learning some stuff off this forum as well just by downloading other people base maps and seeing how different they are to the one I'm using.

Ohhhhh okay that makes sense, i need to go back and fix that. I had just unchecked it.

Im running the FA5, CAI, Skunk2header_catback. And I believe I have a datalog of the car in idle and another random one that might be of use.

[EFICU]

Yeah it looks like these datalogs were made with two different calibrations. The first datalog, your idle fuel is adding almost 28% fuel to meet target AFR. Same thing in part throttle, the fuel trims are on the lean side adding a lot of fuel to meet the AFR. In the second datalog, things are closer, but still a little ways off. But it looks like these are two very different calibrations.

Another thing to be aware of, you're doing some wide open throttle pulls while the coolant is still cold. Be a little cautious in doing that as vtec won't engage unless the coolant is over 140* F. When it doesn't engage vtec, that means you're running on the low cam all the way to redline which isn't good for the valvtrain. Wait until the engine is up to temp on your temp gauge on the dash before getting after it.

But yeah, you're definitely leaving some drivability and performance on the table by running the calibration you mention in your post. A MAF based calibration is not designed for your intake at all. Running a speed density tune will make a massive difference in every aspect of driving range and idle.

[FA5Jo3]

Yeah it looks like these datalogs were made with two different calibrations. The first datalog, your idle fuel is adding almost 28% fuel to meet target AFR. Same thing in part throttle, the fuel trims are on the lean side adding a lot of fuel to meet the AFR. In the second datalog, things are closer, but still a little ways off. But it looks like these are two very different calibrations.

Another thing to be aware of, you're doing some wide open throttle pulls while the coolant is still cold. Be a little cautious in doing that as vtec won't engage unless the coolant is over 140* F. When it doesn't engage vtec, that means you're running on the low cam all the way to redline which isn't good for the valvtrain. Wait until the engine is up to temp on your temp gauge on the dash before getting after it.

But yeah, you're definitely leaving some drivability and performance on the table by running the calibration you mention in your post. A MAF based calibration is not designed for your intake at all. Running a speed density tune will make a massive difference in every aspect of driving range and idle.

The idle datalog i did after i unchecked those boxes i mentioned so maybe that might’ve caused the change?

Thanks for the advice, i didn’t know that. I sometimes do be doing some pulls when the car isn’t warm yet.

Do you think you can help me tune it so it’s driving better and I’m actually using all my resources to get all the power i can?

[EFICU]

The only way the idle would change is if you checked the box to use MAP tables for fueling which would make it run speed density. Without that box checked it would continue to run on the MAF sensor which would cause the bulk of the issues, especially the idle.

No problem, just make note of your temp gauge before you get after it.

Yes I can help you tune it. Since you plan to tune it yourself at some point, I can tune it the quicker route in maybe 3-4 revisions and then it's good until you learn how to do it. The proper route takes 10-12 revisions where we tune each cam angle one by one, then use that data to make certain decisions. If you want to go that way we, it's up to you. Let me know whether you want to make 3-4 revisions, or 10-12 and we'll go from there.

[FA5Jo3]

The only way the idle would change is if you checked the box to use MAP tables for fueling which would make it run speed density. Without that box checked it would continue to run on the MAF sensor which would cause the bulk of the issues, especially the idle.

No problem, just make note of your temp gauge before you get after it.

Yes I can help you tune it. Since you plan to tune it yourself at some point, I can tune it the quicker route in maybe 3-4 revisions and then it's good until you learn how to do it. The proper route takes 10-12 revisions where we tune each cam angle one by one, then use that data to make certain decisions. If you want to go that way we, it's up to you. Let me know whether you want to make 3-4 revisions, or 10-12 and we'll go from there.

I have no idea where to find that at haha so do you think i should go back and re-check the ones i un-checked?

I was really good about warming the car up before doing anything haha but i guess i started slacking.

Let’s do the 10-12 revisions? Just so it’s running properly no knocks. I would love to learn how but i just don’t have the time for it now… got another course I’m trying to learn haha. What do you need me to do so that we can start? Also how much do you charge for the service?

[EFICU]

Okay, I'll get the first calibration together for you and post it in a little bit.

I don't really demand money, I just ask that if you're happy at the end that you send me something if possible

[FA5Jo3]

Okay, I'll get the first calibration together for you and post it in a little bit.

I don't really demand money, I just ask that if you're happy at the end that you send me something if possible

Whoop whoop thank you!

Wow, that’s so cool man we need more people like you!! I’ll definitely be appreciative of your work!

[EFICU]

No problem, I enjoy helping you guys get back to having fun with your cars.

Here is the first calibration. This one will be driving on the 0* cam angle to start, the 0* cam angle is the least powerful, but it helps to lay the foundation for everything we do moving forward. Being that it's on the 0* cam angle, don't get discouraged that it doesn't feel strong, it will get better as we move up in cam angle.

For the datalogs, we need them to be in the twenty minute range with as much stop and go type driving as possible. While on the drives, we need to make one wide open throttle (WOT) pull in third gear from 2500-8600 to work on the WOT fuel too. So take this one for a spin when you can, and we'll see how it looks.

FA5Jo3.SD.Rev01 (0Cam)(Vtec4500).fpcal

(21.1 KiB) Downloaded 51 times

[FA5Jo3]

No problem, I enjoy helping you guys get back to having fun with your cars.

Here is the first calibration. This one will be driving on the 0* cam angle to start, the 0* cam angle is the least powerful, but it helps to lay the foundation for everything we do moving forward. Being that it's on the 0* cam angle, don't get discouraged that it doesn't feel strong, it will get better as we move up in cam angle.

For the datalogs, we need them to be in the twenty minute range with as much stop and go type driving as possible. While on the drives, we need to make one wide open throttle (WOT) pull in third gear from 2500-8600 to work on the WOT fuel too. So take this one for a spin when you can, and we'll see how it looks.

FA5Jo3.SD.Rev01 (0Cam)(Vtec4500).fpcal

Awesome! How many data logs would you like me to get? It's okay, I wasn't expecting it to be powerful from the start!