Hi. I would like to get a basemap for my car, im fairly new to this so I don't fully understand the tuning process with basemaps and there being acouple of iterations of what I assume to be AFR and or knocking adjustments on each cam angle based on what I read on other forum posts. My biggest hurdle is being able to find a tune or basemap for a k20 with a drag cartel 3.2 cams. I worry about piston to valve clearance a lot thus I want to do things properly and not just start off with any basemap. I do know that the most I should allow for vtc is 40* base on what is recommended for k20's running this cam. My specs are
stock block k20z3
type s oil pump
drag cartel 3.2 cams
upgraded springs and retainers
Hybrid racing CAI
Port matched rbc header with j35 throttle body
rdx injectors
plm v2 header
greddy 70mm exhaust
50* vtc cam with 40* limiter (hard limiter there for peace of mind already had a piston to valve accident for other reasons)
I will be building this hopefully this weekend, but I would like to sort out this tune since I dont think running it with a basemap on a aggressive cam is a good idea.
Thank you.
06 FG2 drag cartel 3.2 cams
Re: 06 FG2 drag cartel 3.2 cams
Do you have any plans to get dyno tuned, or are you relying on strictly e-tuning? The only concern you will find is that the new cams and valvetrain are going to cause a lot of audible noise which the knock sensor is going to register as false knock. Determining the validity of that noise being actual knock or false knock is difficult to determine without audible knock detection equipment. If you can find a tuner that has audible knock detection equipment that would be your best bet so they can massage the knock sensitivity tables properly to drown out false knock, while still being able to hear true knock perhaps. You have to be careful either way, because in the calibrations this stuff can be bypassed to not hear noise of any sort therefore resulting in no recorded knock. Or if they were to bypass the knock ignition limits tables to not record knock, they are still tuning it for you using the audible knock detection equipment to make sure there is no knock happening.
With all of that said, I can help you get it going by starting on the 0* cam angle to see how things look. If it shows a lot of knock, it's most likely from the added noise of the cams in which I wouldn't feel comfortable completing the tune for the sake of the money and effort you've put into it. With it being on the 0* cam, I can at least get it to where you can drive it with no issues to get around or drive to a dyno.
You have a lot of money and effort going into this package, and you've already been through a previous failure you recommend, so I would want to make sure you can get it tuned right using the right equipment. Do you have any reputable tuner near you that you know of?
With all of that said, I can help you get it going by starting on the 0* cam angle to see how things look. If it shows a lot of knock, it's most likely from the added noise of the cams in which I wouldn't feel comfortable completing the tune for the sake of the money and effort you've put into it. With it being on the 0* cam, I can at least get it to where you can drive it with no issues to get around or drive to a dyno.
You have a lot of money and effort going into this package, and you've already been through a previous failure you recommend, so I would want to make sure you can get it tuned right using the right equipment. Do you have any reputable tuner near you that you know of?
Re: 06 FG2 drag cartel 3.2 cams
I hope to get it dyno tuned soon. i want to get it dyno tuned but I would need to drive it there safely. The tuner is 5 hours away. I might be overthinking this but: If I install stage 3 cams is there any change of piston to valve contact, even outside of vtec? Like i said I dont know alot, but if a stock basemap + slight tuning does the trick that is great.
Going off of that, now that you mention 0* cam tune, vtc * change is also concerning until I get it tuned , what do you think? I am to the point where i am unsure if I can start the car once installing the cams with a stock cam base tune. But if it starts no problem I guess running it at 0* is no problem
Going off of that, now that you mention 0* cam tune, vtc * change is also concerning until I get it tuned , what do you think? I am to the point where i am unsure if I can start the car once installing the cams with a stock cam base tune. But if it starts no problem I guess running it at 0* is no problem
Re: 06 FG2 drag cartel 3.2 cams
Gotcha. Yeah you might discuss false knock with them and get some info so you can be comfortable with their plan for tuning it. That way you can be sure you're getting the right tune for you and you can enjoy the car.
With the 3.2 cams, the valve will simply open sooner, open more, and stay open longer, but you don't have to worry about piston to valve clearance until you get to a higher cam angle like above 40* as you mentioned in your post. That's why cam manufacturers give you that maximum cam angle so you don't have any issues. Having the mechanical stop as it sounds like you are installing is a great idea so you don't have to worry.
As far as a basemap, I wouldn't used a completed basemap where the VTC is always moving. When you set the entire table to 0*, there is very little that can go wrong because you're essentially neutral at all times. You always want to tune each cam angle one by one when possible, and this is certainly one of those setups you want to tune each on on their own. By running a calibration on the 0* cam angle, you can drive it without worry and be able to drive around until you get tuned, and especially to get tuned. The power won't be impressive, but getting you on the road safely is the only goal. I would send you a 0* cam basemap to get it started, and then we can work on cleaning up the fuel stuff for you to drive it. As I mentioned previously, if there is a ton of knock we almost have to chalk that up to false knock, if it doesn't show any crazy knock then you might be good to tune it. But I would recommend dialing the fuel and what not for the 0* cam angle, and then just leaving it alone until you get to the dyno. I would also set vtec to a higher RPM so you aren't going in an and out of vtec all the time, and not recommend going out and beating on it if we have false knock.
Is your tuner able to get you in soon, or what's the schedule like?
With the 3.2 cams, the valve will simply open sooner, open more, and stay open longer, but you don't have to worry about piston to valve clearance until you get to a higher cam angle like above 40* as you mentioned in your post. That's why cam manufacturers give you that maximum cam angle so you don't have any issues. Having the mechanical stop as it sounds like you are installing is a great idea so you don't have to worry.
As far as a basemap, I wouldn't used a completed basemap where the VTC is always moving. When you set the entire table to 0*, there is very little that can go wrong because you're essentially neutral at all times. You always want to tune each cam angle one by one when possible, and this is certainly one of those setups you want to tune each on on their own. By running a calibration on the 0* cam angle, you can drive it without worry and be able to drive around until you get tuned, and especially to get tuned. The power won't be impressive, but getting you on the road safely is the only goal. I would send you a 0* cam basemap to get it started, and then we can work on cleaning up the fuel stuff for you to drive it. As I mentioned previously, if there is a ton of knock we almost have to chalk that up to false knock, if it doesn't show any crazy knock then you might be good to tune it. But I would recommend dialing the fuel and what not for the 0* cam angle, and then just leaving it alone until you get to the dyno. I would also set vtec to a higher RPM so you aren't going in an and out of vtec all the time, and not recommend going out and beating on it if we have false knock.
Is your tuner able to get you in soon, or what's the schedule like?