when my car is idling and cold in the morning... how do i know if i should alter my air temp settings or water temp?
is there a basic or simple, common sense way that i don't know about? any help would be appreciated.
i can't seem to keep my car at 14.7:1. sometimes it's in the 12s, sometimes it sounds like it wants to die at 17:1 AND i can't figure any difference in circumstances. my ECT and air temps seem to be the same at both times.
anyone?
etc temp VS air temp
plx and it's spliced in (with a switch) so i can run it's signal for tuning, or switch the ECU over to narrow band for driving in closed loop, etc.Spunkster wrote:you obviously have a wideband, which one and how exactly do you have it hooked up?
does that help?
the varying A/F shows on the hondata, as well as the PLX. sometimes i'll be driving and come to a light and it's 14.X:1, sometimes it's in the 13s, sometimes the 12s. it actually runs better in the 12s or 13s.
after driving, i'll shut the car off and, say go into the store. when i come out and start the car it will "lope" and run at 17:1 or so.
i can't see to get a constant A/F so i'm assuming it's the ect/air temp compensation.
it's just that neither seem to make THAT much of a difference, especially air temp.
It sounds like you are tryign to run the car in closed loop withteh wideband signal. Make sure you are using the connection method described at http://www.hondata.com/techplxwiring.html
actually, i switch it to narrow band to run in closed loop. i thought i stated that. sorry for the mix up.Spunkster wrote:It sounds like you are tryign to run the car in closed loop withteh wideband signal. Make sure you are using the connection method described at http://www.hondata.com/techplxwiring.html
if i try to run closed loop with the wideband, the car leans out cyclically. i can't drive it in closed loop/wideband.
most importantly, i'm trying to figure out how to tell if you need to adjust the ECT or air temp settings.
i'm guessing ECT is for start up and air temp is for once i'm up to operating temp and i need to make adjustments for weather?
am i making sense? LOL
I still suspect a problem with how you have the wideband hooked up. WE know you cannot run closed loop withteh wideband signal. THis is why I want to you look at the installation instructions and make sure you have done exactly as they state. ANy deviation may be the casue for your problems. If you use the stock compensation tables, you should not have any major problems.
Mine does a similar thing in closed loop. And I have my wideband wired up correctly. Narrow band signal to O2 and Wideband signal to ELD. After the engine is full warmed up and having driven around a few minutes, I'll come to a stop. I notice the A/F will be around 14.7 for under a minute, then it starts to slowly lean out to say 15.2 (I think it will continue to lean out). I tap the throttle and it richens back up. Is that normal?
I have programmed the wideband volt setting to match that of the stock O2 sensor. But then it seemed to get way rich. I also tried to adjust the target voltage under the Closed loop menu. But I still can't seem to get it right.
Thanks
Ryan
I have programmed the wideband volt setting to match that of the stock O2 sensor. But then it seemed to get way rich. I also tried to adjust the target voltage under the Closed loop menu. But I still can't seem to get it right.
Thanks
Ryan
'98 Civic Hatch | B18C | 85mm 12:1 pistons | Ported head | Skunk2 Stage 2 cams
no, no. when in closed loop, i reach down and switch my signal from wideband to narrow band. when i put the hondata in closed loop, i'm reading narrowband.Spunkster wrote:I still suspect a problem with how you have the wideband hooked up. WE know you cannot run closed loop withteh wideband signal. THis is why I want to you look at the installation instructions and make sure you have done exactly as they state. ANy deviation may be the casue for your problems. If you use the stock compensation tables, you should not have any major problems.
i was tuing with the wideband for so long, i forgot about this at first and would run closed loop with the wideband signal. for some reason the car would run fine.. then lean... fine...then lean while holding constant throttle. THEN i remembered: i wasn't using the narrowband signal. i then wired it up so i could switch from narrow to wide. now, when i put the system in closed loop, i hit the switch (two input signals, one output) so that only the narrowband signal is going to the ecu. not the wideband.
again: i am using the narrowband signal every time i check the "closed loop" box. :D
the ecu needs the actual narrowband (o2) reading. you can not substitute a wideband for narrowband reading.strider wrote:Mine does a similar thing in closed loop. And I have my wideband wired up correctly. Narrow band signal to O2 and Wideband signal to ELD. After the engine is full warmed up and having driven around a few minutes, I'll come to a stop. I notice the A/F will be around 14.7 for under a minute, then it starts to slowly lean out to say 15.2 (I think it will continue to lean out). I tap the throttle and it richens back up. Is that normal?
I have programmed the wideband volt setting to match that of the stock O2 sensor. But then it seemed to get way rich. I also tried to adjust the target voltage under the Closed loop menu. But I still can't seem to get it right.
Thanks
Ryan
also, i believe my PLX has an output that simulates narrowband. i do not use it. when i'm not tuning i do not have any wideband signal going to my ecu. the signal from the actual 02 is far better, from my experience. when not tuning, the only place my wideband signal goes to is the reader.
i hope that helps.
i see. i thought you were using the wideband's optional narrow band output in substitution of your regular OEM O2 sensor.strider wrote:Sorry about the confusion.
I meant to say: I have programmed the wideband controller's narrow band volt setting to match that of the stock O2 sensor.
i tried that once. it didn't seem to work very well