Ok. So I put the hondata in, turn the key to the ON position and the laptop recognizes the ecu. I uploaded a map and started the car up this afternoon. Car ran like crap, Solid CEL (on the dash), no sensor information and no MAP tracing. I called my dealer who was stumped. :( Now I am wondering what is wrong. When I turn the car on and off the software recognizes the hardware change. And I can upload and download maps when the car is not running, but no real-time updates. UGH UGH UGH. Anyone, PLEASE HELP.
setup:
JDM b16a
89 CRX Si
Rywire harness
repinned dist.
o2 sensor hooked up.
Checked my wiring with a stock LS ecu and everything is fine, No CEL, idles fine, runs decent for an LS ecu. HELP!!!!
s300 not connecting to laptop
I'm having the similar problem. However me and my friend installed the s300. Perhaps you could give me some insight on what to look out for? I didn't really know anything about installing any of it but my friend is an Electrical Engineer and has done lots of similar work with other systems and boards so it wasn't new to him. We just followed the directions on the DIY thread. My ECU has a solid CEL, the computer recognizes the hondata and it lights up however i can't view any of the Engine status when the vehicle is on.. The work on the board was very clean as far as the points that he soldered we double checked everyhting with a magnifying glass and all the traces look good and do not have any pieces of solder or anything like that on them. There were 3 things that i think i might be skeptical about:
- Two resistors came with the package and only 1 was used, It had a red/black/brown stripe i believe and tested at about 1 ohm. The DIY thread had 3 red stripes and i believe those are 2 ohms, correct? Well i don't know if we installed the correct resistor or not. and what purpose does the other resistor serve with just the single black stripe?
- On the j12 jumper we took off the resistor but there's still solder in the two holes because it was hard to desolder them, does that make a difference? as long as the resistor is removed right?
- While trying to install the pins for portion 27256 the pins split in half. I don't think that really mattered as long as we were able to sit it on the board and solder the points... I just thought i'd list that just in case it poses as a problem.
Other than that, everything about the install looks pretty good. Hopefully i could get some insight on what i might need to consider what the problem is. Is it possible we heat up the chip to hot? Or is there a step missing other than what's on the DIY that i need to do? any help is appreciated... If we can't figure it out i guess i'm going to have to send it in to you guys... thanks
- Two resistors came with the package and only 1 was used, It had a red/black/brown stripe i believe and tested at about 1 ohm. The DIY thread had 3 red stripes and i believe those are 2 ohms, correct? Well i don't know if we installed the correct resistor or not. and what purpose does the other resistor serve with just the single black stripe?
- On the j12 jumper we took off the resistor but there's still solder in the two holes because it was hard to desolder them, does that make a difference? as long as the resistor is removed right?
- While trying to install the pins for portion 27256 the pins split in half. I don't think that really mattered as long as we were able to sit it on the board and solder the points... I just thought i'd list that just in case it poses as a problem.
Other than that, everything about the install looks pretty good. Hopefully i could get some insight on what i might need to consider what the problem is. Is it possible we heat up the chip to hot? Or is there a step missing other than what's on the DIY that i need to do? any help is appreciated... If we can't figure it out i guess i'm going to have to send it in to you guys... thanks
Okay so i did a little more work on the car today... It looks like i can upload and download maps to the ECU, but still it doesn't read any RPMS doesn't datalog and still pulls a solid cel... here's the pictures.
BACK of spot 27256, J1, and R54
BACK of spot 74HC373
Back of 4 HeadPin
Back of J12
Please give me insight if something might look wrong, thanks
BACK of spot 27256, J1, and R54
BACK of spot 74HC373
Back of 4 HeadPin
Back of J12
Please give me insight if something might look wrong, thanks
It is the soldering. The joints should look more like the factory solder joints - shiny and conical. The 28 pin connector looks OK but the latch and 4 pin connector are almost all cold joints and the tracks are close to being damaged. We recommend sending it in to us rather than risking lifting any tracks by attempting to repair it.
Hondata