NEW HOndata TRaction COntol $$$795 $$$$4
Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 11:53 am
WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!????
795 us dolllars!!????!!! or 795 mexican pesos ????!! which is aprroximatly 70 dollars and that sounds fair although still on the expensive side.
i honestly mean no offense and believe that hondata is the best honda tuning software but 795 dollars is just plain f u ken ridiculous. i think we paid an arm and a leg for the software, ecu, cables, and pwm bull crap. i tell everyone that i see with turbo cars to go hondata and i have already convinced over 10 people to purchase one and have one friend in the process of saving up for one after i told him not to do same mistakes i did with crome(crap). that is like over $$$$4000 dollars that i have made for this company in profit and i know the physical materials are extrememly cheap to make.
Or am i getting something wrong? is it 795 for a whole new s300 with all the features including traction control already included or are they really charging almost 800 dollars(same price as a used eg hatch) so that crappy drivers can continue to be CRAPPY DRIVER and never learn how to use proper foot and throttle control.
if your car loses way to much traction in first and 2nd then u need to learn how to drive, get a rwd or awd car, buy better tires, or use boost by gear.
By utiliing traction control im assuming that the ecu somehow senses the slippage through the speed sensors and then retards ignition to the settings that you put which in return rapidly increase exhuast temperatures and cuase premature damage or in other words, if your engine was going to hit 100,000 miles before a rebuild, with the traction control it will last 85,000miles(just an estimate but you get the point).
if your car makes ridiculous power in first and second even with boost by gear then the only way to regain traction is to retard the ignition by a lot and gas, and if your currently making 300whp in first and u want perfect traction, ur going to need around 200whp assuming you have normal tires cu who the hell uses traction control for slicks! thats retarded and pointless, none of the top fuel dragsters ever use that crap or pro drivers. to go from 300whp to 200whp at the same boost levels, there will be alot of degrees retarded and fuel washing cylinders and prematuraly say bye bye seals and valves. their gonna get toasted. too much retarded ignition is not good, and should be avoided at all times with our four cylinder engines. were already pushing the four cylinders to their limits.
most of our turbo hondas with street tires can spin them loose in first, second, and third easily and for the lucky ones out there they can spin every single gear. i dont think i want that much ignition retarded in every gear i race. that also destroys tubular manifolds faster, blows gaskets, and shows on the spark plugs.
i think the smarter thing to do for anyone interested in getting this is seriously rethinking their setup and people need to remember that bigger is not always better. what the hell is the point of having a gt35r topmounted on the street hahah. i have beaten so many hondas with over 100 to 150whp in my turbo ls just cus while their slippin and making alot of noise, im just flying down the track. the answer is boost by gear, a small spring and smaller turbo. bigger turbos should be just for purpose driven race cars with slicks at all times otherwise prepare to lose to a bunch of 50 trims
ps: i say this all from 48hours of willow spring track time, and real life experiance on the streets with turbo hondas. not just talking out of my ass
795 us dolllars!!????!!! or 795 mexican pesos ????!! which is aprroximatly 70 dollars and that sounds fair although still on the expensive side.
i honestly mean no offense and believe that hondata is the best honda tuning software but 795 dollars is just plain f u ken ridiculous. i think we paid an arm and a leg for the software, ecu, cables, and pwm bull crap. i tell everyone that i see with turbo cars to go hondata and i have already convinced over 10 people to purchase one and have one friend in the process of saving up for one after i told him not to do same mistakes i did with crome(crap). that is like over $$$$4000 dollars that i have made for this company in profit and i know the physical materials are extrememly cheap to make.
Or am i getting something wrong? is it 795 for a whole new s300 with all the features including traction control already included or are they really charging almost 800 dollars(same price as a used eg hatch) so that crappy drivers can continue to be CRAPPY DRIVER and never learn how to use proper foot and throttle control.
if your car loses way to much traction in first and 2nd then u need to learn how to drive, get a rwd or awd car, buy better tires, or use boost by gear.
By utiliing traction control im assuming that the ecu somehow senses the slippage through the speed sensors and then retards ignition to the settings that you put which in return rapidly increase exhuast temperatures and cuase premature damage or in other words, if your engine was going to hit 100,000 miles before a rebuild, with the traction control it will last 85,000miles(just an estimate but you get the point).
if your car makes ridiculous power in first and second even with boost by gear then the only way to regain traction is to retard the ignition by a lot and gas, and if your currently making 300whp in first and u want perfect traction, ur going to need around 200whp assuming you have normal tires cu who the hell uses traction control for slicks! thats retarded and pointless, none of the top fuel dragsters ever use that crap or pro drivers. to go from 300whp to 200whp at the same boost levels, there will be alot of degrees retarded and fuel washing cylinders and prematuraly say bye bye seals and valves. their gonna get toasted. too much retarded ignition is not good, and should be avoided at all times with our four cylinder engines. were already pushing the four cylinders to their limits.
most of our turbo hondas with street tires can spin them loose in first, second, and third easily and for the lucky ones out there they can spin every single gear. i dont think i want that much ignition retarded in every gear i race. that also destroys tubular manifolds faster, blows gaskets, and shows on the spark plugs.
i think the smarter thing to do for anyone interested in getting this is seriously rethinking their setup and people need to remember that bigger is not always better. what the hell is the point of having a gt35r topmounted on the street hahah. i have beaten so many hondas with over 100 to 150whp in my turbo ls just cus while their slippin and making alot of noise, im just flying down the track. the answer is boost by gear, a small spring and smaller turbo. bigger turbos should be just for purpose driven race cars with slicks at all times otherwise prepare to lose to a bunch of 50 trims
ps: i say this all from 48hours of willow spring track time, and real life experiance on the streets with turbo hondas. not just talking out of my ass