Hondata

7300rpm proved reliable, there was not any error during the dyno day.

No. Problem is still there and with headlights on. I now think it is not related to the battery but rather to the hybrid system, maybe higher revs upset it. I have a big datalog, this time when the red light came on it stayed on for several minutes. During this time the hybrid system was asleep (no ...

Yes!

with headlights on = no problem.

I tested above 7000 rpm , and I had no light on the dashboard and the BAT volts graph is stable !

Headlights on seem to make the BAT voltage 13,6 - 14 V without falling.

I did not have the road to rev up to test yet.

Ok, I'll make a try with headlights on, see how the voltage goes.

I know this is off topic (don't know if you had any involvment in this) but anyway i wanted to share some of my photos of Honda powered cars, http://www.flickr.com/photos/alollini/sets/72157634367606769/ and a little youtube (videos at the end with true sound) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWYAhTO3...

If the ecu is stock and i datalog, i see the volts fluctuate, but never any arror. While the car auto stop at street lights, sometimes is shows 14V, and sometimes it shows 12.5 V. Tpedal fully depressed seem to always register below 12.7 V, while every other situations register above 13.6 V However ...

I think i have something new : Japan 2010 CR-Z has redline at 6800. EU and USA models redline at 6500 in all gears except 1st wich redlines at 6250. EU model stops IMA assist/regen at 6200 rpm. Maybe when the car goes above 6800 it is understood as as OVER-REV by some part ( maybe IPU ) staying away...

I have a tuning day on a dyno planned for July 16. I would like we review together several points in order not to waste that day (and my money with it) I have read that : http://www.hondata.com/techtuning.html 1- I suppose geometry is not needed (my geometry is 2 month old) because this is a dyno wh...

So you don't understand why i have the red light and "check battery" with no IMA assist or charge for 30 seconds ? I did another datalog with staying below 6000 rpm and the voltage is variable too but within the limits. I did not had the red battery light problem this time. to trigger the ...

this datalog shows a lot of up and down in the voltage.

maybe that is not only at high rpm, but longer lasting acceleration.

on this specific data i got the red light only once (the light did not came on for each drop in voltage)

i'll post the log when i'm online with my pc.

yes i have those. I read the manuals all week-end and came to a conclusion. the I.P.U. stops working @ 6200 rpm. above that the car is on battery (like a normal car with alternator removed ie : a F1 ) the dashboard don't like that. if the over rev is short ( from 1st to 2nd for example) then it does...

It happened while i was data logging, so i can see it on a graph. I understand the battery normal voltage is 13.6 V to 14V I see it dropping to 12.2 V @ 6900 rpm then it stays low for one minute of open driving / WOT at various rpm. During that minute, here is what i had : 1- a "limiter like&qu...

ok, thanks.