Hondata

I'm using a PLX wideband, and I also get a blip towards rich before going to "AIR" when letting off the throttle. Just sharing as a data point.

Yes, you have to remove (desolder or just cut out with snips) 2 resistors from the ECU.

In Parameters on the Closed Loop Advanced tab, select D10 as the wideband input.

In Parameters on the Misc tab, check Disable ELD.

Leave D14 as it is, you don't have to re-wire it.

Look up the diagram on google for the pinout to make sure you are pinning the wire to the correct spot.

It can be sent to Hondata for this using the ECU socketing form: https://www.hondata.com/downloads/ecu_socketing_form.pdf It is the reliability upgrade. I definitely recommend sending it in to Hondata and having them do it. They use high quality capacitors and will do a good job. Turnaround was pre...

Yes, move your wideband input to D10 (which was originally for the ELD) and disable the ELD in Hondata. My understanding is that the ELD input can take a full 0-5v, but D14 cannot. If you're looking at the wire side of the D connector on the ECU, it's 2 spaces to the left of D14 and is either a GRN/...

Have you had the ECU recapped yet? My money is on bad capacitors, or damage to the board due to bad capacitors.

That fixed it! Thanks.

Am I just misunderstanding it, or are the vacuum columns in the tables going in the wrong order? Shouldn't column 1 be -29.1 (in-Hg), and column 9 be -3.8?

Yeah, the display got me a little messed up initially, but with AFR. For future reference you can go to the "sensors" window and scroll to the bottom and it will show you Eth. %. I don't think you can change the unit for Ethanol percentage in the Sensors window, but you can change units and all kind...

Spunkster wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 18, 2019 4:30 pm

It is best to go ahead and remove them.

Thanks. I just pulled my ECU and it looks like that's already been taken care of. Thanks again for the suggestion!

For my own knowledge, when do you decide to remove the two resistors from the ECU if using D10 as the wide band input? Go ahead and pull them out, or look for some kind of symptom?

I just wanted to follow up that your suggestion worked. Thanks again, Spunkster.

Much appreciated.

Thanks. I'll get rid of the narrow band signal, then. Should I split the wideband signal wire so that it runs to both AN1 and D10, or are you saying I should just go straight to D10 and not worry about connecting the wideband to an analog input? What is the benefit of using D10 over D14 (I'm just cu...

I'm running an S300v3 on a P28 ECU with a PLX SM-AFR wideband. I have the wideband signal for the PLX wired into AN1 on Hondata and the narrow band signal from the PLX wired into D14 on the ECU. I'm currently running in open loop and my PLX is grounded at the thermostat. On the "Analog Inputs" tab I...