Hondata

Hondata wrote: ↑Fri Feb 05, 2021 5:28 amNext time I'll only put green LEDs on the board.

LoL

Mine is definitely set up for flex fuel and I like it that way in case I can't find E85. All I'm saying is I haven't tested how it runs on 93 pump in almost 2 years. Mine gets run at least every 2 weeks. If not for some reason, I will swap over to 93 and run it for about 2-3 minutes to flush the sys...

I too felt like the stock values loaded in the ethanol fuel compensation (open loop) table were too lean for my setup. I adjusted mine as shown below. Honestly though, I haven't run 93 octane fuel in almost 2 years because I can always get E85. I have been on the dyno twice since the initial dyno tu...

Have you looked in the Hondata Vault?

Your ECU will not be able to control the solenoid unless you have the "BBG" upgrade done to your ECU.

I have had two ECU's with Hondata in them, and for both of them I sent them in to Hondata for the installation. There are other vendors that will do the installation, though. If you want to send it in to Hondata, the form you need to complete is here: https://www.hondata.com/downloads/ecu_socketing_...

I looked at your datalog and calibration. At the stutter (about 34.5 seconds) your ignition timing drops (from +32 deg to -4 deg) and your injector duty cycle jumps up (from 3.88 ms to 21.44 ms). I haven't messed with the soft rev limiter before, but I would try moving the power reduction slider all...

Yes, the S300 will work fine to tune the H23A1. Hondata does not provide base maps, other than the calibrations that are pre-loaded into SManager, and those are typically just used as a starting point. You could look in the vault to see if there is a calibration that will work as a good starting poi...

My money is on the injectors being the issue. Spend the money and have them cleaned and flow tested before banging your head against the wall any further. Sorry for the late Update, You were right on the money, My brand new DW injectors were bad, I sent them back to them to have them tested and the...

The best way to tune for ignition timing is on a dyno where you can see small power changes which are driven by changes to the timing maps.

If you are tuning by knock, you'll need to use a knock detection device (either third party or DIY).

Yes, if you have the original calibration file saved on your laptop, you can make the changes to a copy of that file, then revert back to the original one later if you want. Now that I think about it more, I think that running in open loop may solve your issue. If you run open loop, you won't have t...

Thanks for posting the files. First off, I'm not a professional tuner and I don't work for Hondata, so take my advice and analysis with a grain of salt. I don't want to bash, but your timing maps look terrible, and if a professional tuner set those up, I would look for a new tuner. I'm not sure if t...

I would recommend loading the stock calibration for the B16 and running in closed loop with it as it is, then start making small adjustments to the fuel table if you want to see how those changes impact driveability and AFR. I agree, don't touch the timing maps if you're NA until you are on the dyno...

Are you running in open loop or closed loop?

Is it possible for you to post your calibration file and a datalog from when the car is having the issue?

I've got a 94 Civic EX with a turbo D16Z6 and am using a PLX wideband. My sensor is grounded at the thermostat housing. Wideband output wire is going to the ELD input on the ECU (D10). I have resistors R136 and R138 removed from the ECU. I'm not using the narrowband output wire. For powering the wid...