Spark plugs
Ignor my last post please>>>>>>>>> Just did a check thru hondata on my plugs and the ones I found are for a 95 del sol DOHC VTEC and the part #'s are BKR6EIX-11 and IFR6E-11 which ones should I go with? I'm pretty new to the honda seen............................................................
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ported and polished, built head (black nitrate valves, duel racing springs, tit. retainers, valve guides, APR head studs Type R cams and adjustable cam gears) DC sport 4-2-1 header into test pipe and full cat back exhaust, 62mm JG throttle body port matched type R intake, 360cc RC injectors, Hondata S300 well tuned, AEM ugeo controller other then that just stage 4 axles clutch and flywheel.
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Right now I'm 210 horse when Its tuned just having problem with the plug thing and ther is no tune shop any where around here. For some reason the car will not run off of that program anymore it just dies. Do I need to start over or something? Has anyone ever had that problem? No idea what to do..........................
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Yes those plugs are NOT resistor ones. Please just take the advice of the original post and use resistor plugs. If you dont believe me, try to get onbard datalogging to work properly without them... it wont work. we have switched these plugs out on about 10 cars EVERYONE of them can log onboard.hondatechpr wrote:Does anybody have tried the R5671A-8, R5671A-9. I tried then with my nitro setup and they worked pretty well
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I though that the "R" on those spaks was for resistos but I found out in www.ngksparkplugs.con that is for racing and they are non-resistors. Also I have a friend turbo GSR that have R5671-10 and i put the BKR7E-11 because I didn't have the 8's in stock and it started with a misfire. It that could be that the range is too hot or the gap has to be at .035 insted of .045?
Integra 96 B20 Vtec nitrous 115hp 260hp total 12.00ET 115MPH Stock internals hondata S300
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For me, plug ratings are dependent on setup.
B20B with 11.8 comp, I used 7, but with slight knocking, but plugs weren't bluish, so swapped to 8, enabled me to run slightly higher timing, and a little more gain in torque.
Each manufacturer's 7 and 8 ratings does not equate to similar heat range, so it's a trial and error thing.
For a car on NGKs, running well on 7, on another brand, it could be 8s.
Gapping is also an option, but I usually just swap plugs. you spend $$$ on an engine setup and you want to skimp on plugs?
B20B with 11.8 comp, I used 7, but with slight knocking, but plugs weren't bluish, so swapped to 8, enabled me to run slightly higher timing, and a little more gain in torque.
Each manufacturer's 7 and 8 ratings does not equate to similar heat range, so it's a trial and error thing.
For a car on NGKs, running well on 7, on another brand, it could be 8s.
Gapping is also an option, but I usually just swap plugs. you spend $$$ on an engine setup and you want to skimp on plugs?
very interesting read
I've always heard use the racing colder plugs like R5671A-8 for our turbo honda motors....
So you guys listed three plugs on first post which one of those would replace a R5671A-8 for lets say a H22 with turbo setup - 16psi?
So datalogging won't work at all without switching to these plugs?
The article suggests only certain years of honda's would be affected do you guys have the specific year ranges or even models that you are refering to?
So you guys listed three plugs on first post which one of those would replace a R5671A-8 for lets say a H22 with turbo setup - 16psi?
So datalogging won't work at all without switching to these plugs?
The article suggests only certain years of honda's would be affected do you guys have the specific year ranges or even models that you are refering to?