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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 5:24 pm 

Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2010 7:32 pm
Posts: 86
Location: ohio
Let me know what you guys think.

My setup consist of lsvtec
81.5mm bore b18b
Sleeved
b16 head gsr cams W/victor x intake w/dual valve spring and titanium retainers
1200cc injectors
Walbro 255lph
stock tb
T4 twinscroll topmount
BWsx300 turbo with divided 91.ar housing.
Stock ignition.

Now before you said my air/fuel needs work, I just like to say that I had my WB in the d10 pin and had the offset right and reading with the hondata. After that pull I quite because the BC couldn't handle the boost and caused the creep. I had my boost cut set at 27 but my graph shows 30ish but I didn't hit boost cut. I hammered it on the way up there and only shower 25psi which is where I have been tuning it at. I've tuned this myself with a couple dyno tunes.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 9:38 pm 

Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 3:34 pm
Posts: 9
looking at your tune and it seems alright, but i cant help you if don't post a datalog, so post a 3rd gear datalog and we should be able to help you


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:57 pm 

Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2010 7:32 pm
Posts: 86
Location: ohio
Ill try but traction is a big issue unless im at the track. I found one when I upped the boost to 26 well 25 and it creeped. I didn't touch the WOT part of the map so I hope this datalog helps.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 9:39 am 

Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 3:34 pm
Posts: 9
first thing you need to keep your AFR's in the area of 11.8-12.4 WOT and 12.4-13.00 at light to part throttle, after getting your AFRs right you should be able to keep EGT and ECT down allowing you to advance timing a little more thus more power to wheels.

As for the boost creep that is mostly caused by atmospheric pressure and temperature and since it's winter and it's colder this will happen. Therefore you need to fine tune your air temp compensation and fuel compensation for the different temperatures.

Boost cut not working; maybe your need to check your boost solenoid

This is advice and you may use it to your own discretion.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 12:20 pm 

Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2010 7:32 pm
Posts: 86
Location: ohio
ChaddiTuned wrote:
first thing you need to keep your AFR's in the area of 11.8-12.4 WOT and 12.4-13.00 at light to part throttle, after getting your AFRs right you should be able to keep EGT and ECT down allowing you to advance timing a little more thus more power to wheels.

As for the boost creep that is mostly caused by atmospheric pressure and temperature and since it's winter and it's colder this will happen. Therefore you need to fine tune your air temp compensation and fuel compensation for the different temperatures.

Boost cut not working; maybe your need to check your boost solenoid

This is advice and you may use it to your own discretion.



Thanks chad for the advice. Thats one of the reason I went to the dyno to help fine tune the a/f and when I did the first base pull I couldn't keep the boost steady lol. Junk boost controller is the cause I believe. Boost cut works but I couldn't figure out why the dyno said that and my hondata said different?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 9:09 pm 

Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 3:34 pm
Posts: 9
burmese434 wrote:
ChaddiTuned wrote:
first thing you need to keep your AFR's in the area of 11.8-12.4 WOT and 12.4-13.00 at light to part throttle, after getting your AFRs right you should be able to keep EGT and ECT down allowing you to advance timing a little more thus more power to wheels.

As for the boost creep that is mostly caused by atmospheric pressure and temperature and since it's winter and it's colder this will happen. Therefore you need to fine tune your air temp compensation and fuel compensation for the different temperatures.

Boost cut not working; maybe your need to check your boost solenoid

This is advice and you may use it to your own discretion.



Thanks chad for the advice. Thats one of the reason I went to the dyno to help fine tune the a/f and when I did the first base pull I couldn't keep the boost steady lol. Junk boost controller is the cause I believe. Boost cut works but I couldn't figure out why the dyno said that and my hondata said different?


No problem. As a tuner i use the hondata/tuning program and not the dyno for factual information

Invest in a Hallman manual boost controller and PWM boost solenoid, when it comes to boost pressures these 2 items are the best things money can buy.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 10:43 pm 

Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2012 10:14 am
Posts: 13
You really need to get that A/F under control. Fix that you will get some better numbers out of it. Also the parts that spike to 20:1 is dangerous. I know you said you had some issues, but issues like that should have been fixed before going to dyno. good luck! :)


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 2:17 am 

Joined: Sun Aug 28, 2011 11:41 pm
Posts: 89
I tried my hand at making it look a little better.


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