Hondata

fly_n wrote:Nice of u to at least finally admit the truth......u spent all that money on a tuning tool to just drive round on a basemap.......yep.....makes perfect sense.........
really beginning to think i wasnt far wrong with the hardparker bit.

Where did u get that fairytale that the B & D basemaps are perfect stock calibrations as the honda engineers intended????? Who sold u that winner?

How did u come up with the notion that one basemap fits all GSR/ITR motors that u know of? Shit i can hardly think of one GSR or ITR motor in our local community that still resides in its original chassis let alone exists in some sort of uniform configuration.

If u want a stock calibration than cut J1 pull the S300 out,sell it & the ECU ,go buy yourself a P13 & do better things with the cash.

Please tell me how u deduced that the stock H22 map was too rich for your motor & what steps if any u decided to take to correct that condition?
Please...im dying to hear this one,this will be gold.....please......

So your admitting that your car starts(cold/hot) & runs, & does it safely on that H22 map?
Please answer this one too^^^


Also...
Please Sir...
Will u please circle the B16B/LSVTEC/B20VTEC stock calibrations on the following excerpt straight from 1.4.4?

Also when uve circled them,could u please show me the catalogue for the OEM Honda vehicle containing the LSVTEC & B20VTEC that hondata drained the stock calibrations from?
Really,im genuinely interested,we could make a fortune,because it would be only u & i in the whole world that knows about these magical vehicles......

Please tell me how u deduced that the stock H22 map was too rich for your motor & what steps if any u decided to take to correct that condition?
Please...im dying to hear this one,this will be gold.....please...
"Look at the injector size" stock h22 don't even come with 450cc. BIGGER INJECTOR = RUNNING RICH!


LSVTEC you could just you a gsr or itr map same thing
B20VTEC use the b20 calibration with enable vtec
B16B is obvious that you could just run a b16a calibration

Tell me what is so different about those? Obviously you must be dumb and don't know. Why won't you put 450cc as stock injector size on all those calibration and tell me how shitting your car run. Yeah why won't your run little b series with that h22 calibration on your car and see how shitting your car run.

Seriously are you stupid or what? I just need a stock calibration to make my car run decent. Without having my car running ultra rich from idle towards cruising. All the stock calibration run fine with the b & d because all the injectors are set correctly. All of the b & d calibration runs lean to starch until it hits redline which will run rich which is safe.

hdragster wrote: All the stock calibration run fine with the b & d because all the injectors are set correctly. All of the b & d calibration runs lean to starch until it hits redline which will run rich which is safe.

Who is feeding u your info mate?
U should really find a better source.....

How many B's have u tuned to qualify the above statements that u make?

Its been nearly 4 years since i pulled my car out of a basemap, so i cant remember the exact figures.

With my motor being in very stock configuration at the time, the part throttle tuning,i without a single doubt in my mind, remember pulling 20% chunks of fuel out of what u call a "b lean to (starch???) calibration".

Once u have learnt the true value of the fact that your car,
1.Cold Starts,
2.Hot Starts,
3.Runs sufficiently so u can jump straight in & start tuning it,&
4.Idles

then & only then will u see how silly this whole thread is.



Go talk to someone who has built a tune from scratch on any other standalone that doesnt support honda basemaps,isnt setup for honda sensor input & ask them whats truely involved.....
And if they paid a shop to achieve all that for them,ask them how dry their wallet truely is.....it will be overwhelmingly,substantially drier than your wallet....

Its no use bleating over & over to anyone about how rich it might be running, it is a BASE MAP, nobody in any shape or form said it was a driveable or"functional" map as u put it.

Enter the god damn correct injector figures,clear the bloody 15% overall trim sitting on that H22 cal & start tuning.
Hondata have given u one hell of a headstart on the tuning already.
In relatively no time at all will u have a lot of the excess fuel sitting on that map at least in the ballpark.

Why the fk,are u sitting there with a $800 piece of tuning equipment on board,with no attempt to do anything with it whatsoever,whining on & on about fuel economy?????

Down at the local junkyard there are stock P13's piled high at a dime a dozen,with tunes sitting on them that honda engineers probably spent millions to develop,that will fix all your fuel economy woes & guess what???
They will all probably give u much better performance & reliability than any basemap will provide.

The NA B & D series boys are in exactly the same position that u are,get that thru your thick skull. If any of them are spending that amount of money to make any noticeable gains in performance,economy & reliabilty running around on the basemaps provided,then they are delusional.....

I ask u this .....who is an idiot?????
Me or the person driving around wondering what all the black shit is covering their rear bumper,when they make no attempt to take the 30seconds required to remove a decent amount of the cause of all of that black shit ......

fly_n wrote:

hdragster wrote: All the stock calibration run fine with the b & d because all the injectors are set correctly. All of the b & d calibration runs lean to starch until it hits redline which will run rich which is safe.

Who is feeding u your info mate?
U should really find a better source.....

How many B's have u tuned to qualify the above statements that u make?

Its been nearly 4 years since i pulled my car out of a basemap, so i cant remember the exact figures.

With my motor being in very stock configuration at the time, the part throttle tuning,i without a single doubt in my mind, remember pulling 20% chunks of fuel out of what u call a "b lean to (starch???) calibration".

Once u have learnt the true value of the fact that your car,
1.Cold Starts,
2.Hot Starts,
3.Runs sufficiently so u can jump straight in & start tuning it,&
4.Idles

then & only then will u see how silly this whole thread is.



Go talk to someone who has built a tune from scratch on any other standalone that doesnt support honda basemaps,isnt setup for honda sensor input & ask them whats truely involved.....
And if they paid a shop to achieve all that for them,ask them how dry their wallet truely is.....it will be overwhelmingly,substantially drier than your wallet....

Its no use bleating over & over to anyone about how rich it might be running, it is a BASE MAP, nobody in any shape or form said it was a driveable or"functional" map as u put it.

Enter the god damn correct injector figures,clear the bloody 15% overall trim sitting on that H22 cal & start tuning.
Hondata have given u one hell of a headstart on the tuning already.
In relatively no time at all will u have a lot of the excess fuel sitting on that map at least in the ballpark.

Why the fk,are u sitting there with a $800 piece of tuning equipment on board,with no attempt to do anything with it whatsoever,whining on & on about fuel economy?????

Down at the local junkyard there are stock P13's piled high at a dime a dozen,with tunes sitting on them that honda engineers probably spent millions to develop,that will fix all your fuel economy woes & guess what???
They will all probably give u much better performance & reliability than any basemap will provide.

The NA B & D series boys are in exactly the same position that u are,get that thru your thick skull. If any of them are spending that amount of money to make any noticeable gains in performance,economy & reliabilty running around on the basemaps provided,then they are delusional.....

I ask u this .....who is an idiot?????
Me or the person driving around wondering what all the black shit is covering their rear bumper,when they make no attempt to take the 30seconds required to remove a decent amount of the cause of all of that black shit ......

You know what fly_n you do make a very good point! I actually have tuned 3 cars. 2 d series, 1 b series, and my h series. Do you tuned with your stock 02 sensor with lambda on? Or do you used a actual wideband? What I notice is that the lambda does give you a airfuel that your car is running but is not correct compare to my aem uego. IDK where this thread even going anymore. Obviously not getting a stock a calibration

hdragster wrote:

fly_n wrote:

hdragster wrote: All the stock calibration run fine with the b & d because all the injectors are set correctly. All of the b & d calibration runs lean to starch until it hits redline which will run rich which is safe.

Who is feeding u your info mate?
U should really find a better source.....

How many B's have u tuned to qualify the above statements that u make?

Its been nearly 4 years since i pulled my car out of a basemap, so i cant remember the exact figures.

With my motor being in very stock configuration at the time, the part throttle tuning,i without a single doubt in my mind, remember pulling 20% chunks of fuel out of what u call a "b lean to (starch???) calibration".

Once u have learnt the true value of the fact that your car,
1.Cold Starts,
2.Hot Starts,
3.Runs sufficiently so u can jump straight in & start tuning it,&
4.Idles

then & only then will u see how silly this whole thread is.



Go talk to someone who has built a tune from scratch on any other standalone that doesnt support honda basemaps,isnt setup for honda sensor input & ask them whats truely involved.....
And if they paid a shop to achieve all that for them,ask them how dry their wallet truely is.....it will be overwhelmingly,substantially drier than your wallet....

Its no use bleating over & over to anyone about how rich it might be running, it is a BASE MAP, nobody in any shape or form said it was a driveable or"functional" map as u put it.

Enter the god damn correct injector figures,clear the bloody 15% overall trim sitting on that H22 cal & start tuning.
Hondata have given u one hell of a headstart on the tuning already.
In relatively no time at all will u have a lot of the excess fuel sitting on that map at least in the ballpark.

Why the fk,are u sitting there with a $800 piece of tuning equipment on board,with no attempt to do anything with it whatsoever,whining on & on about fuel economy?????

Down at the local junkyard there are stock P13's piled high at a dime a dozen,with tunes sitting on them that honda engineers probably spent millions to develop,that will fix all your fuel economy woes & guess what???
They will all probably give u much better performance & reliability than any basemap will provide.

The NA B & D series boys are in exactly the same position that u are,get that thru your thick skull. If any of them are spending that amount of money to make any noticeable gains in performance,economy & reliabilty running around on the basemaps provided,then they are delusional.....

I ask u this .....who is an idiot?????
Me or the person driving around wondering what all the black shit is covering their rear bumper,when they make no attempt to take the 30seconds required to remove a decent amount of the cause of all of that black shit ......

You know what fly_n you do make a very good point! I actually have tuned 3 cars. 2 d series, 1 b series, and my h series. Do you tuned with your stock 02 sensor with lambda on? Or do you used a actual wideband? What I notice is that the lambda does give you a airfuel that your car is running but is not correct compare to my aem uego. IDK where this thread even going anymore. Obviously not getting a stock a calibration

Like I said before, have you checked this out?

viewtopic.php?t=10643

U can change injector size to 345cc. by your self in s300 calibration.

Change the current injector size to whateveer size you are using.
Depending on the year of injector, you could have anywhere from a 290 up to the 310... I use this map for all my H22 swaps. The VTEC maps are still a lil rich, but as stated, this is a TUNING TOOL.

Dont expect a plug and play when you begin trying to go fast.

what about starting with a b18c map, change injector size, add 400cc in fuel trim for displacement, save as, and presto h22 base map.
then drive around and data log af's.