Hopefully someone with more understanding than I will be able to help please.
I'm banging my head against the wall trying to figure this out as to me it makes no sense (to me!).
- OBD0 chassis with D16A6 originally
- Converted to P28 and swapped to D16Z6
- 500cc RC's low impedance, resistor box fitted
- Basemap from Hondata library stock P28
- ELD disabled, knock, baro, dead times set
- open loop but stock O2 fitted
- D10 ELD selected for WB input, no offset,
- no ELD fitted to the car, the ELD pin is only wired to the WB.
- Innovate LM1 connected to ELD input.
- R136/R138 removed
What I see happening is that with the aux from the LM1 to the ELD disconnected the LM1 is showing on it's screen AFR's around 20-24 at idle
But idle is smooth-ish
When I plug the cable in (at 1min 15sec) immediately the idle starts bouncing around and AFR's now go to 14-17 and the display tracks the hondata AF reading very closely.
But it wont idle.
I can hold the throttle higher and it wont hold RPM.
Soon as I unplug the connection from LM1 to ECU, (at 1min 40sec) once again it idles but AFR's go to 20+
Video:: http://www.hondacrx.co.uk/AFR-or-idle-Pick-one.mp4
I tried selecting a different input for wideband (at 2min 5sec). D12, or B6, the problem persists, AFRs' track the LM1 being plugged in or not.
The videos show whats going on with the LM1 readings when they are not being logged, and the changing of inputs having no effect (realtime update was ticked!)
Video:: http://www.hondacrx.co.uk/WB-input-swap.mp4
The calibration I've up loaded onto the ECU for this test is me starting again from nothing.
I did manage to part tune the fuel this way on a previous calibration, and it would be stable
but as soon as I remove the WB connection it goes to hell.
If I try to run in closed loop with the narrow band it goes to hell too.
But, I did get the AFR's hovering around 14.4-15.5 consistently, with no load across the RPM range.
I have tested this ECU (call it A) and this S300 (also A) in a different car which is tuned by someone else.
I put the calibration from the ECU & S300 in that car (B) on to this ECU (A) and it ran the car fine.
For clarity, that's 2x ECU's and 2x S300's
I've not tried the other way around because I dont want to risk anything to the working car!! although I expect the problem would remain.
I have tried a different wiring harness (from the other car) and still same problem.
I have been over the wiring looking for any differences as not all USDM/EURO chassis pins are the same function!! and no problem there either.
Please help.
I want to get this tuned a little bit NA, and pass emissions, before fitting the turbo later.
If it's not running correctly now, I didn't want to add to problems with boost just yet.
Thanks
Dave